
Class Q 



Book 



Vv-Z 



Copyright^? 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Poultry Sense 

A TREATISE 

ON THE 

MANAGEMENT AND CARE 

OF 

CHICKENS 

INCLUDING THE TREATMENT OF THE 
MORE COMMON DISEASES 

BY 
J. P. PURSELL, M.D. 



PUBLISHED BY 

DR. JAMES P. PURSELL 

"GRAND VIEW" 

SELLERSVILLE, PA. 

1911 






CoPYBIGHTED, 1911, 

BY 

J. P. PuRSELL, M. D. 



( 






CRAIG, FINcEA A. CO., PH1I.A-, 

©CI.A295971 



PREFACE 



My excuse for writing these few 
pages is to relieve some poor 
fellow, who may have spare time 
on his hands, as I have had. 

Living in the country, one is not 
afforded the various pastimes and 
clubs to run into in leisure hours, 
and, as I am of an active nature 
and must keep occupied, decided 
to keep a few chickens. 

Proceeded to buy a few books 
on chicken lore ; subscribed for a 
couple of first-class poultry jour- 
nals; soon discovered there were 
a vast number of both to be had, 
but, after reading them for some 
months, found that I was more 
confused and mystified than ever. 

5 



PREFACE 

Then I began experimenting, 
and thus I can assure vou I have 
been through the mill. 

It is a long story, but I will not 
take up your time with such a 
tale of woe. It would be like de- 
scribing the best bird, only to find 
later that they are all good. Any 
can be made a success by care- 
fully following these pages. 

James P. Pursell, M. D. 

Me?nber of A. P. A. 



Grand View, 
Sellersville, Pa. 

January 15th, 1911, 



sisws 



ftoulinj ^«s? 



I*T*|H£ poultry subject has 
I occupied the minds of 
aBffle»l some of the foremost 
scholars and philosophers 
from the time B.C. until the pres- 
ent era. 

Much serious thought, time and 
money have been spent in an 
endeavor to increase the produc- 
tion and quality of the hen. 

In fact, to standardize a system 

7 



POULTRY SENSE. 



of poultry culture, so that, by a 
course of study and practice, any 
person of average intelligence can 
make a success with the same. 

Among the earliest writers were 
men of profound mind and influ- 
ence, who gave the subject their 
unbiased consideration and atten- 
tion. 

That they succeeded in develop- 
ing specimens of excellence, in a 
manner that would stand out prom- 
inently at this day, will be seen 
from a careful study of their 
writings. 

As to the origin of the domestic 
fowl, that is a question which will 
never be positively decided. 

By many it is thought to be the 
jungle fowl of India; it can scarcely 
be possible that all the species 



POULTRY SENSE. 



have come from one common 
source. 

One of the writers of the first 
century was M. Terentian Varro — 
a friend of Cicero — who died in 
27 B. C., in his 89th year. 

He was one of the most learned 
of the early Roman scholars, hav- 
ing written 470 books, though of 

these onlv two have come down to 

t/ 

us. 

The one entitled "De Re Rus- 
tiea," on agriculture, written in 
his 80th year, was the most ad- 
vanced of its kind. In it he gives 
space to poultry, calling attention 
to strong;, healthv, vigorous breed- 
ing stock. He describes what they 
should be, and no doubt were, 
also different kinds. 

Pliny the Elder, (born A. D. 23, 

9 



f POULTRY SENSE 



at Como or Verono), was a Roman 
naturalist of eminence and a great 
writer. 

In his tenth book of "Histora 
Naturalis," he writes of the domes- 
tic fowl, and says: " These birds 
about our houses are our sentinels 
bv nisht; nature has created them 
to awaken and call men to their 
work; they also have sense and 
understanding of glory; moreover, 
they are astronomers, know the 
course of the stars, divide the day 
by crowing three hours to three 
hours; when the sun goes to rest, 
they go to roost and, like sentinels, 
keep relief of the fourth watch; 
in the camp they call men to their 
labor and travel and will not 
suffer the sun to rise and steal 
upon us but that they give warning 

10 



POULTRY SENSE. 



of it by their crowing, telling us 
the day is coining ; likewise by 
clapping their sides w r ith their 
wings. Ye shall see them marching 
stately, carrying their necks bolt 
upright, with a comb on their 
heads like the crest of a soldier's 
helmet, and there is not a bird 
beside himself that so oft looketh 
up to the sun and sky." 

Columbella, a Spaniard by birth, 
like Pliny the Elder, was an enthu- 
siastic writer on poultry; speaks of 
the courageous fowl of Taragra 
and the fattening fowl of Delas; 
writes of a table fowl of superior 
excellence, size, shape and utility. 

From his description, there is 
no doubt but that he refers to the 
game fowl and describes what they 
were and should be: 

11 



POULTRY SENSE. 



"They should be of plumage 
red or tawny, black wings; let 
the whole be of the same color, 
or a near approach; let white fowls 
be avoided, for they are tender and 
less robust, neither is it easy to 
find those of that color that are 
prolific." 

He speaks of the breeding hen 
and says: "It should be robust, 
square-framed, large and broad, 
large head, small comb, white 
ears, and let the largest be used. 

Those hens are reckoned the 
purest bred which have five claws. 
Thus you see at that early age 
vigor and stamina were of first 
importance. 

They must have had a standard 
and bred to the same, also several 
varieties. 

12 



POULTRY SENSE. 



He then says : u the cock must be 
lustful and colored like the hen, 
same number of claws, but larger, 
proud and erect, eyes brown, beak 
short and crooked;" goes on to 
describe the features and manners, 
as lively, alert and crowing fre- 
quently. 

All writers of the different ages 
seem to have realized the ten- 
dency to deteriorate and insisted 
upon good quality. 

Chaucer, writing in the 14th 
century, describes a fowl similar 
to the old Kent, Sussex and Surry, 
a five-toed fowl. 

Terentian Parmenes also said 
they should be of the choicest 
color, good shape, active, cour- 
ageous and goes into detail of eye, 
wattle, comb and head. Speaking 

13 



POULTRY SENSE. 



of their care, they must have 
clean pots and perches, refresh 
their troughs with fresh, clean 
water thrice in summer and twice 
in winter, for filthy water engen- 
dered pip and other sickness. 

Maisters, Leonard, Mascall, in 
1581, and Prudense Choiselat, in 
1588, wrote in a like manner and 

7 

mentions a breed with a tuft of 
feathers on their heads. This is 
the first mention of the crested 
breed I have found thus far, 
which shows that they are among 
the oldest breeds on record. 

As seen from the French trans- 
lation of "The Maison Ruas- 
tique," written in the 16th century, 
the breeders of this period seem 
to have had the right idea of sani- 
tation and advise cleaning the 

14 



POULTRY SENSE, 



houses every day, frequently de- 
stroying insects, keeping the houses 
drv, free from draught and fur- 
nish plenty of clean water; give 
them sand, dust or ashes in which 
to dust themselves. 

Having seen how careful they 
were three hundred years ago, 
we ask ourselves how much have 
we advanced? 

It is indeed interesting to reflect 
upon the knowledge and attention 
given to poultry through the past 
ages, yet not surprising when one 
considers the benefit and pleasure 
to mankind derived from produc- 
ing as perfect and useful a fowl 
as we have today. 

In visiting many of the larger 
poultry plants and schools of this 
country, it seems to me there is 

15 



POULTRY SENSE. 



one important question which must 
be decided before success can be 
attained and that is, how to obtain 
health and vigor in the parent 
stock? First decide upon the 
breed you wish to keep, and, if 
for white eggs, would suggest 
the light or Mediterranean, which 
require less space and feed than 
either the Asiatic or American. 

The leghorn has been dubbed 
the Jersey of the egg producers, 
though some of the American 
breeds are very good layers and 
will produce as many eggs per 
year. Then there are the Minor- 
cas and Houdans, which lay large 
white eggs; the latter is especially 
prized in France for their table 
qualities. 

If you want meat and eggs 

16 



POULTRY SENSE, 



(and there is no objection to brown 

eggs), we advise the Wyandotte, 
Reds, Rocks, Orpingtons, Lang- 
shans, Brahmas and Cornish. 

If you are interested in the 
fancy and breeding for pleasure 
(and, if properly handled and 
advertised, profit), choose the 
breed which appeals to you most. 
Eggs for market should be infer- 
tile, as they are more sanitary and 
keep better; these are strictly inva- 
lid eggs free from bacilli. Don't 
let your hens eat poor or putrid 
food, as it affects the flavor of 
the eggs and may transmit disease 

to vour hens. 

*/ 

How shall we attain the health 
and vigor referred to above? 

By following these instructions : 

17 



POULTKY SENSE, 



Location 

First, as to location. If possible, 
locate on a sandy soil, well drained 
and laying to the south, south- 
east, or southwest. 

Now consider what kind of 
fowls should go into the breeding 
pen. 

This is the first step, and here 
we must begin correctly if our 
object is to be attained. See that 
they are selected with as much 
care and study as a college foot- 
ball team. 

If you are right, succeeding steps 
will be easy; make a mistake, and 
failure is certain. 

If inexperienced, we would ad- 
vise buying a pen of the best birds 
your purse will allow and from 

18 



POULTRY SENSE, 



some breeder of experience who is 
known to be reliable. 

Even though you cannot afford 
more than three good birds, better 
spend your money for these^ than 
a larger pen of inferior stock. 

Let these few be vigorous in 
every sense of the word. Be sure 
to inquire if any of them have been 
sick or out of condition; if so, 

then thev are not the birds for 

%j * 

you. You want only those that 
are absolutely strong, active, 
well developed and from good, 
vigorous stock. 

If you purchase eggs for hatch- 
ing, see they are from such stock 
as described above, and are not 
over two weeks old and as fresh 
a,s possible, they should be well 

19 



POULTRY SENSE, 



shaped, good color, and free from 
defects. 

Don't make a mistake and breed 
to a bird because it meets standard 
requirements and sacrifice vigor 
and laying qualities. 

The number of hens per male 
should be about twelve to fifteen 
in the Mediterranean, eight for 
the American, and six for the 
Asiatic; the more active the breed 
the more females per pen. 

If you use two males in the 
breeding pen (alternating each 
day), we get the best results from 
an early hatched and well matured 
cockerel and cock, — it will increase 
the per cent, of fertile eggs and 
produce more vigorous stock. 

If inexperienced, I would say go 
slowly, develop a unit plant of 

20 



POULTRY SENSE. 



from twenty-five to one hundred 
birds and when you have made a 
success of those you can multiply 
your plant by adding as many 
units as you desire. 

Breed to yearlings or two-year- 
old hens, using an early hatched 
and fully matured cockerel or 
cock. 

It is generally considered that 
mating hens with cockerels will 
give a larger per cent, of pullets, 
and by mating fully matured pul- 
lets with a cock bird will give 
more cockerels. 

Never breed to full brothers or 
sisters, or where the male and 
female have like defects. 

I am quite aware there are 
those who will say, "Nonsense, 

21 



POULTRY SENSE. 



pullets are all right to breed to 
cockerels/' 

Not so in our experience, nor 
do the most successful breeders 
use them. 

The only time we believe pullets 
can be used is when you are breed- 
ing for cockerels, as stated above, 
and then they should be early 
hatched, fully matured and bred 
to a vigorous cock. 

Why not breed to pullets? 

Because they do not bring as 
strong, vigorous chicks, nor will 
they develop as rapidly or grow 
into as fine, large specimens as 
those from the more fully matured 
hen. 

Pullets not being fully developed, 
lay smaller eggs, and the fertility 
is liable to run lower owing to the 

22 



POULTRY SENSE, 



large number of eggs laid per 
month as compared to hens. 

The best results obtained at 
Grand View, have been from year- 
ling or two-year-old hens mated to 
a large cockerel or a year-old cock. 

The male should be selected 
with especial care, as to vitality* 
size, shape and color, and should 
exceed in those points which are 
defective in the female and vice 
versa. 

I mention vigor first, because it 
is of the most importance, and, as 
I have just said, particularly in 
the male. 

He must be active, alert, cour- 
ageous, giving all of his attention 
to his hens, defending them, crow- 
ing often and difficult to coerce. 

His eye should stand out promi- 

23 



POULTRY SENSE, 



"nently and look ferocious and 
call loudly to his hens. 

Next of importance is type. 

He should be of good conforma- 
tion; this is very essential. Next 
in line comes color; see that he is 
true to his kind, and of good size. 

After you have selected your 
breeders, you must have a pen or 
house for their abode; we would 
strongly advise the fresh air kind, 
with curtain fronts. 

Regardless of the adverse criti- 
cism of a few prominent breeders, 
fresh air is of vital importance to 
all organic life. See that the pen 
is dry, free from draughts, of 
ample size, so that there will be no 
crowding on the perches at night, 
plenty of scratching room, free 

24 



POULTRY SENSE. 



from all kinds of vermin, clean 
and sanitary. 

The floor should be double, 
with heavy paper between the 
layers. 

There are many books written 
on poultry houses and fixtures; 
all agree in the main with but a 
few exceptions, so we will not take 
up much space in describing them 
other than to say that in a pen lOx 
12 about 25 to 30 chickens can be 
comfortably housed. 

See that the dropping board is 
at least two feet from hens when 
on perches and that the sun can 
shine on them a short time each 
day. 

It is quite essential to visit your 
hen-house at nia;ht, in mild weath- 
er, in order to note if there is any 

25 



POULTRY SENSE, 



crowding on the perches; if such 
is the case, you have too many 
to a pen; overcrowding is con- 
ducive to colds and poor ventila- 
tion. , 

The house should be free from 
draughts, dampness and vermin, 
for vou cannot be successful un- 
less you keep your flock free from 
the annoyance of lice and mites. 
Use plenty of lice powder; w r e use 
"tip top" and find it very good. 

Remove all droppings at least 
once a week; every day is better. 
Use plenty of sand on the floors 
of pen and drop boards, as sand 
is very important as well as sani- 
tarv; sifted coal ashes will do. 

Disinfect often (not less than 
once a month) winter as well as 
summer ; damp, warm, mucky 

26 



POULTRY SENSE, 



weather is a good breeder of dis- 
ease germs and a good time to 
fumigate. 

Always be on the lookout for 
colds or other diseases, if you find 
such, remove the bird from the 
pen at once and place in a hospital. 

Right here let me say that we 
consider it of utmost importance 
to have a separate place some 
distance from the other birds in 
which you can place all sick fowls. 
You will appreciate this advice 
some of these days when such 
diseases as roup, chicken-pox, sore 
throat, limberneck, cholera and 
other epidemics are rampant in 
vour neighborhood; the chances 
are that if you have followed the 
above instructions you will escape, 
which will save labor, worry, 

27 



POULTRY SENSE. 



money and perhaps a prize winner 
or two. 

Upon purchasing birds from 
any source, never place them among 
your flock until you feel sure they 
are free from all vermin and 
disease. 

For disinfecting use formalde- 
hyde or flowers of sulphur; the 
former can be used in liquid by 
spraying on perches, dropping 
boards and about the pen, or the 
candles can be used; in using the 
sulphur, take a cupful (6 oz.) in an 
old can (we use the large-sized 
sardine can), set it in a basin of 
water, being careful that the water 
is not too deep or it will wet the 
sulphur; pour a little wood or 
denatured alcohol on the middle 
of sulphur and after freeing the 

28 



POULTRY SENSE. 



pen from all the chickens " and 
making it as nearly air-tight as 
possible, light the sulphur. 

To a pen ten by twelve put two 
cans of sulphur or two candles of 
formaldehyde, after they have 
burned out (or in two or three 
hours) open up the pen and allow 
the birds to return; this will occupy 
very little time and destroy disease 
germs, vermin and rats. 

Paint the perches at least twice 
a week with a mixture composed 
of one part crude carbolic (90 to 
95 per cent.) to three parts gasoline. 
This is a fine disinfectant and 
germicide. 

See that your hens have a good 
dust bath which contains a goodly 
quantity of flowers of sulphur or 
louse powder. 

29 



POULTRY SENSE. 



We would suggest putting the 
dust box on the outside of the 
poultry house leaving an opening 
twelve by fourteen inches, through 
which they can enter the dust box 
from their pen. 

This box should be large enough 
to accommodate several birds at 
a time. If you have thirty birds, 
make your box or house three by 
four feet in floor space and two 
and one-half feet high in front, 
slanting the roof towards the poul- 
try house, where it will measure 
three feet high; place glass in the 
south side of this box. Of course 
this box will always be built on 
the south side of your hen house. 
Have the floor of the box six inches 
below the level of the hen house 
by placing a board six inches high 

so 



POULTRY SENSE. 



across the entrance to the dust 
bath. It will keep the chickens 
from dragging in the litter. 

Fill the box with dust or ground 
mixed with louse powder and 
flowers of sulphur until it is on a 
level with the floor of the house. 




DUST BATH 



The roof should be placed on 
hinges, so as to allow cleaning out 

31 



POULTRY SENSE, 



and replacing fresh dust or ground. 
By this plan the dust is kept out 
of the poultry house and yet 
affords a natural way for the hens 
to dust themselves. 

Trap Mesting 

We advise the use of trap nests 
by all means, particularly for the 
breeding pen, so as to be able to 
pedigree your stock and for the 
laying pullets, to enable one to 
select the best layers of large, 
perfect-shaped eggs. 

There shouldjbeja record kept 
of these birds, so when we come 
to mate our breeding pens the 
following year, it can be done 
intelligently. 

In order to do this each pullet 

32 



., ^.»-w^ "t -~ ''- t*^"^ " 







TRAP NEST 



V/IRE? WHICH 
.SETS *n o LOCKS 
TRAP DOOR 



j7^p or pin 




^ in - Horizontal arm 

'WHICH FITS OVER 
.- END OF PIN. 



Perpihdicular notch 
which locks poor. 




Slide in which 
wire moves , which 
locks door. 



Square staple on which 

PERPINDICULAR NOTCH CATCB£S 
TO LOCK DOOR. 



POULTRY SENSE. 



should be banded. This band 
should be marked with the number 
of the bird and the year it was 
hatched. It will be your aim to 
improve your flock along the line 
of utility (laying, size of bird and 
egg), and show quality. This 
cannot be done scientifically with- 
out the aid of the trap nest. 

By stamping the year on the 
band, it enables you to begin 
numbering the pullets each year, 
commencing with number one. 

Trap-nesting incurs considerable 
labor, as the hen must be liberated, 
necessitating your visiting the nests 
three or four times daily. 

Upon removing the egg, it must 
be marked with her band number, 
also the number of the male, and, 
if you wish the date, this must be 

34 



POULTRY SENSE. 



done at the nest, so as to be sure 
you do not get the eggs mixed; a 
mistake here would make your 
record useless. 

Pedigreeing is very exacting 
work, but very interesting. 

The trap nest can be made out 
of any box having the following 
dimensions. 18 in. deep, 15 in. 
high, 12§ in. wide; these are inside 
measurements. The wire which is 
used in making the trap is the size 
used in making handles for grape 
baskets, in fact have used the 
grape basket handles for making 
the traps. 

Feeding the breeding hen is a 
question which requires consider- 
able thought. The object is to 
produce strong fertility, large eggs 
and as free from bacilli as possible. 

35 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Here quantity is not considered; 
it is quality we want. 

It has been said white diarrhoea 
in the chick develops from an 
infected egg. This could be pos- 
sible if the hen that laid the egg 
suffered intestinal trouble or con- 
stitutional disease. 

This emphasizes what we have 
already said about strong, vigor- 
ous birds, pure feed and clean, 
fresh water put in sanitary fonts 
or basins. 

A medium diet is one not so 
rich in egg-producing material (pro- 
tein), but which will develop a 
strong, active bird, laying three or 
four eggs per week; such eggs 
are more fertile, larger, and hatch 
stronger chicks. 

We advise the use of a germicide 

36 



POULTRY .SENSE, 



in the drinking water two or three 
times a week for a couple of weeks 
before saving the eggs for hatching 
and once or twice a week during 
the breeding season. 

The following germicides are 
inexpensive and can be purchased 
at any first-class pharmacy and 
may be used as follows: 

Enough permanganate of potash 
to color the water a cherry red, of 
1 to 1000 solution, or sufficient 
bichromate of potash to give an 
amber tint to water, of 1 to 1000 
solution, Ten drops of carbolic 
acid to one quart of water or bichlo- 
ride, 1 to 1000, two ounces in a 
quart of water. I prefer the latter, 
especially if there has been any 
previous bowel trouble in the flock. 

Where the stock is strong and 



POULTRY SENSE, 



vigorous, with no history of bowel 
disturbance in your chickens from 
the previous year, the above may 
not be necessary, but can do no 
harm, though would not use the 
germicide more than once a week. 

Feeding tlie Pullets 
and luaying Hens 

First let us consider what the 
pullets require : 

They must grow a heavy supply 
of feathers to protect them from 
the cold in winter, meet the Cata 
and anabolistic process (tearing 
down and rebuilding of the body), 
or, in other words, the wear and 
tear of her system, develop heat 
to keep her warm and material 
with which to produce the eggs 
and energv. 

38 



POULTRY SENSE, 



When the pullets have reached 
the laying pen it is not so important 
that their feed should be rich in 
muscle, bone and feather-produc- 
ing material, but rich in egg and 
energy-furnishing elements, which 
can be determined from the analy- 
sis of the various feed stuff given 
later, and will be selected from 
oats, wheat, corn, barley, peas, 
beans, lentils, cotton, linseed and 
meat meal, ground or cut green 
bone and milk. 

She should have a goodly supply 
of green feed, consisting of sprouted 
oats, or other grains, cabbage, 
mangles, lettuce, turnips, swiss 
chard and occasionally a feed of 
alfalfa. 

After the pullets have been 

39 



POULTRY SENSE, 



placed in the laying pen they 
should be fed the following: 

The mash for the first three 
weeks should consist of: 

Wheat bran 300 lbs. ^ 

Wheat middlings 150 " > 

Corn chop 75 " 

Meat scraps 75 " V 

After the third, and beginning 
with the fourth week, and continued 
for the next month, add to the 
above : 

Gluten meal 75 lbs. 

Cotton or linseed meal 35 " 

From this on they should be 
given the following: 

Wheat bran 300 lbs. 

Wheat middlings 175 " 

Corn chop 100 " % 

Meat scraps 150 " 3 

Gluten meal . 100 " 

Cotton or linseed meal 50 " 

During the molting season 

40 



POULTRY SENSE. 



(which commences about July 
15th), we add twenty-five pounds 
more of cotton seed or linseed 
meal and a little sunflower seed, 
mixed with the whole grains, which 
are scattered in the litter. 

Be careful to examine your meat 
meal to see that it is free from 
adulteration and good and sweet; 
there has been so much poor stuff 
sold that it pays one to be on the 
watch and not to buy any but the 
best and from a reliable dealer. 
It should run about sixty per cent, 
protein and guaranteed to be fresh, 
otherwise you had better feed blood 
meal or plenty of milk. 

Oyster shell, grit and charcoal 
should be kept before them in 
hoppers, at all times. 

The whole grains should be 

41 



POULTRY SENSE, 



thrown in about twelve inches of 
litter and consist of two quarts of 
oats and one quart of wheat, given 
in the morning and cracked corn 
at night; when very cold, feed 
whole corn. 

The morning feed may be alter- 
nated every other day or so with 
two quarts of barley and one quart 
of wheat; a little buckwheat, say 
one pint, can be added to two 
quarts of cracked corn for the 
evening feed. 

It is important that the birds 
should be kept busy, — this means 
hungry. If you overfeed they 
will become fat and inactive. Find- 
ing grain in the early morning 
before feeding would indicate that 
you have over-fed, and in this case 
you should withhold whole grain 

42 



POULTRY SENSE. 



until the litter is entirely free from 
the same. 

I would also advise the closing 
of the mash box and only allow 
them to use it about two hours 
during the middle of the day. 
As soon as they get busy again, 
go back to the former method of 
feeding. 

The hens will require the same 
whole grains and would use in 
the mash box the same mixture 
as is given in the second mash for 
the pullets. 

To better enable you to select 
a feed to your own liking and 
judgment, we give the following 
tables, taken from several very 
reliable sources. 

I might say that the American 
Association of Agricultural Col- 

43 



POULTRY SENSE. 



lege and Experiment Stations have 
adopted and recommended the 
term protein in the place of pro- 
teid, albumin, albuminoids, ni- 
trogenous foods, etc., and we will 
treat the term as synonymous. 

The following tables from several 
reliable sources will give you the 
value of the various vegetables 
and grains used in feeding: 



44 



POULTRY SENSE. 



TABLE No. 1 

Prepared from two very reliable sources. 

Showing the value of different feed as tissue builders, heat 
and energy producers. 



Wheat . . 
Barley . . 
Oats . . . 
North Corn 
South Corn 
Buckwheat 
Kye . . 
Rice . . 
Lentils 
Peas 
Beans . 
Potatoes 
Turnips 
Cabbage 
Mangles 
Cow's Milk 
Beef. . . 







FOOD 




MUSCLE- 


HEAT- 


FOR 




BUILDING 


PRODUC- 


NERVE 


WATER. 


MATERIAL 


ING. 


TISSUE. 




Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


16.6 


66.4 


1.6 


14. 


12.8 


52.1 


4.2 


14. 


17. 


50.8 


3. 


13.1 


12.3 


67.5 


1.1 


14. 


34.6 


39.2 


4.1 


14. 


8.6 


53. 


1.8 


14.2 


5.5 


75.2 


0.5 


13.5 


5.1 


82. 


0.5 


9. 


26. 


39. 


1.5 


14. 


23.4 


41. 


2.5 


14. 


24. 


40. 


3.5 


14.8 


1.4 


15.8 


0.9 


74.8 


1.2 


4. 


0.5 


90.4 


1.2 


6.2 


0.8 


91.3 


3.0 


8.0 


1.0 


86. 


19. 


14. 


2. 


65. 



WASTE. 

Per Cent. 

3.4 
12.9 
16.9 

5.1 

8.1 
22.4 

4.3 

3.4 
19.5 
19. 
17.7 

7.1 

3.9 

0.5 



45 



POULTRY SENSE, 



TABLE No. 2 

Prepared for use in United States Army. 





PROTEIN. 
Per Cent. 


FATS. 
Per Cent. 


CARBO- 
HYDRATE 

Per Cent. 


SALTS. 
Per Cent. 


WATER. 
Per Cent. 


Oatmeal . 
Corn Meal 
Barley . . 
Kice . . . , 






15.1 
9.20 

13. 
7.4 

26.70 

23.10 
2.10 
2.10 

17.7 


7.1 
3.8 
2 7 
0.4 
1.7 
2. 
0.1 
0.6 
27. 


68.2 
70.6 
76. 
79.4 
56.40 
59.2 
17.9 
5.5 


2. 

1.4 

3. 

0.4 

2.9 

3.1 

1. 

1.1 

0.9 


7.6 
15. 

12.3 


Peas . . 
Beans . . 
Potatoes 
Cabbage . 
Beef. . . . 




12.3 
12.6 

78.9 

92. 

55. 



As one can see, from a comparison of the foregoing tables, 
there is some variance in the per cent, and composition of 
foods, but not enough to make any particular difference, when 
we come to make up our feeds. 

The following tables are reliable and show the general com- 
position as an average analysis of grains, vegetables, etc. 



48 



POULTRY SENSE. 



TABLE No. 3 

Prepared from the Report of the U. S. Department of Agriculture. 





PROTEIN. 


FAT. 


CARBO- 
HYDRATE 


WATER. 




Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


Wheat ..... 


12.25 


1.75 


71.25 


10.60 


Oats 


12. 


4.5 


58. 


10. 


Corn . . . . . 


10. 


4.5 


71.75 


10.75 


Barley 


11. 


2.25 


69.45 


10.85 


Buckwheat . . 


10.75 


2. 


62.75 


12. 


Rye 


12.25 


1.5 


71.75 


10.5 


Rice 


8. 


2. 


76. 


12. 


Cotton Seed 










Meal 










Pennsylvania . 


44.40 


10.10 






New England . 


45.40 


11.20 






New York . . 


45.64 


10.82 






Linseed Meal, 










Old Pros. 










Pennsylvania . 


34.10 


6.04 






New England . 


35.70 


7.20 






New York . . . 


35.74 


7.19 






New Pros. 










Pennsylvania . 


34.25 


2.63 


FREE 




New England . 


38.20 


2.40 


NITROGEN 




New York . . . 


36.14 


3.57 






Corn (Dent) . . 


10.3 


5. 


70.4 


10.6 


Corn (Flint) . . 


10.5 


5. 


70.1 


11.3 


Corn Meal . . . 


9.2 


3.8 


68.7 


15. 


Gluten Meal . . 


29.4 


6.3 


52.4 


9.6 


Malt Sprouts . . 


25.15 


1.71 


45.98 


9.94 


Brew. Dried Grains . 


23.90 


7. 


43.30 


8.9 


Wheat Bran . . 


15.4 


4. 


53.90 


11.9 


Wheat Mid. . . 


15.6 


4. 


64.40 


12.1 




14.9 


4.5 


56.80 


11.8 


Ground Oats . . 


11.8 


5. 


59.7 


11. 




10.5 


2.2 


66.3 


11.9 


Red Clover . . . 


12.3 to 14.5 


3.3 to 3.9 


38.1 to 45.2 


15.3 


White Clover . . 


15.7 to 17.4 


2.9 to 3.2 


39.3 to 43.5 


9.7 


Alfalfa 


14.3 to 15.6 


2.2 to 2.4 


42.7 to 46.6 


8.4 



47 



POULTRY SENSE, 



TABLE Na. 3-Continued 
The following is an average table taken from different 



sources : 





PROTEIN. 


FAT. 


CARBO- 
HYDRATE 


WATER. 




Per Cent. 


Per Cent, 


Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


Lentils 


25.7 


1. 


59. 


8. 


Peas 


24. 


1. 


62. 


10. 


Beans 


22.5 


1.8 


59. 


12.6 


Turnips .... 


1.33 




8. 


89. 


Cabbage .... 


2. 


.3 


6. 


90. 


Cow's Milk . . 


4. 


4. 


4. 


87.5 


Beef 


20.5 


3.5 


0. 


74.4 


Pork 


9.8 


48.9 


0. 


39. 



48 



POULTRY SENSE. 



In order to scientifically deter- 
mine just what kind of feed and 
in what proportions they should be 
used, let us consider the analysis 
of the hen's body, also the egg. 

THE HEN'S BODY CONSISTS OF 
THE FOLLOWING : 

Water — seventy-four per cent. 
Protein — twenty-one per cent. 
Fat — three and four-fifths to five 

per cent. 
Saline — about one-half per cent. 

The egg, one tenth of which is 
shell, contains the following: 
Water — seventy-three and one-half 

per cent. 
Protein — thirteen and one-half per 

cent. 
Saline — one and a tenth per cent. 

Lewis and Gilbert give the fol- 
lowing analysis of the egg, allow- 

49 



POULTRY SENSE. 



ing one-tenth for shell, which is 
largely carbonate of lime, yolk 
thirty parts and white sixty parts. 

Yolk of Kgg 

Yolk of egg — thirty per cent. 

Protein — sixteen per cent. 

Fat — thirty and seven-tenths per 

cent. 
Saline — one and three-tenths per 

cent. 
Water— fifty-two per cent. 

W&ite of Egg 

White of egg — sixty per cent. 
Protein — twenty and two-fifths per 

cent. 
Saline — one and three-fifths per 

cent. 
Water— seventy-eight per cent. 
Shell (largely carbonate of lime), 

ten per cent. 

As has been shown from the 

50 



POULTRY SENSE 



foregoing, the hen's body and egg 
are largely composed of water, 
you can better appreciate the im- 
portance of a goodly supply of 
the same. 

Next we find protein predomi- 
nates, and as this is especially 
necessary for a large egg yield, 
it is self-evident the laying pen 
should be well supplied with the 
same, and as fat protects the pro- 
tein from consumption and is the 
principal heat supply, we must 
have a goodly portion of this in 
the food. 

The carbo-hydrates (sugars and 
starch) furnish energy and nerve- 
building material as well as some 
fat, so it should be found in the 
grains, vegetables and other feeds. 

The bony system, feathers and 

51 



POULTRY SENSE. 



egg-shell are supplied principally 
from the phosphates and carbonate 
of lime, also soda (salt) and iron. 

This is largely furnished by 
oyster shell, wheat, bran, oats 
corn, etc. 

There has been a great deal said 
and written about feeding hens 
and pullets for egg-production, 
much of which is confusing and 
misleading to the beginner. Better 
follow one good authority than to 
try so many different schemes. 

After all, it is not only the feed 
that makes a heavy egg yield in 
the spring, but climatic conditions* 
which furnish more natural feed 
and stimulate an active and busy 
life. 

A good combination of cereals to 
be given to start your pullets and 

52 



POULTRY SENSE, 



liens on the egg laying idea is the 
following : 

Ground beans, peas, lentils, and 
cotton seed meal mixed in equal 
portions and added to the mash 
occasionally, say two or three 
times a week, will usually do the 
trick, and start the young and old 
hen singing and on an expedition 
of investigation for a place to lay 
the egg. 

It is not best to keep this up for 
very long, and just as soon as the 
eggs begin to come you may 
gradually reduce this and finally 
stop it. 

Scalded oats or barley given in 
the morning in cold weather will 
give good results; you may also 
moisten your mash a couple of 
times a week with milk, or equal 

53 



POULTRY SENSE. 



parts of milk and water, in which 
you can put a little salt; this given 
to the laying hen will assist in 
maintaining a uniform egg supply. 

Do not keep pullets or hens 
that are sluggish layers; better 
put them in the fattening pen and 
send to the market as soon as 
possible. 

The trap nests will pick out the 
lazy ones, or by examining the 
lay bones you can pretty well tell. 

If the pullets are fully matured 
and have had the proper care and 
you are not getting eggs from them 
by January 15 to February 17 it 
will not pay to keep them longer, 
much less to breed to them. 

To determine by the lay bones 
as to whether a chicken is laying 
or no, you proceed as follows: 

54 



POULTRY SENSE. 



The lay bones are the two bones 
felt just beneath the vent, and in a 
hen that is not laying or a pullet 
before she commences to lay, they 
are quite close together, and it 
will be difficult to place one's 
fingers between the same; later, 
if you find you can get two fingers 
between the lay bones, it indicates 
she is getting ready to lay, and 
when three or four fingers can be 
placed between the bones the 
chances are she is laying, or will 
do so in a few days. 

To our minds, the best egg pro- 
ducer is a good, well-developed, 
healthy pullet, properly fed and 
housed. 

CHicRs 

Chicks may be hatched by hens 
or in an up-to-date incubator; 

55 



POULTRY SENSE. 



if by hens, would advise setting 
Biddy in a quiet place, giving her 
a good nest of cut straw or shav- 
ings, in which have been mixed 
flowers of sulphur and lice powder; 
the heat of her body will cause a 
sulphurous odor which is not rel- 
ished by the lice. You may put 
a sod of earth in the bottom, if 
you wish, then the straw and sul- 
phur and powder on top. After 
the hen has been thoroughly pow- 
dered with louse powder and given 
some china eggs, she is left to her- 
self, and if she proves worthy of 
good eggs by having sat faithfully 
on the nest for two or three days, 
give her thirteen eggs in cold and 
fifteen in mild weather, Once a 
week she should be powdered, 
then you will be pretty sure there 

56 



POULTRY SENSE. 



will be no vermin to bother her or 
the baby chicks which make their 
appearance twenty-one days from 
the time of setting. 

After they are all hatched and 
dry, the hen and chicks may be 
placed in a comfortable and com- 
modious coop, which has been 
previously prepared, cleaned, free 
from lice and placed so as to have 
a southern exposure. 

There should be a runway sup- 
plied, in which the chicks can go, 
but not the hen; this should be 
supplied with a cover, so that in 
wet weather it will not storm on 
the chicks and they and the ground 
be kept dry. 

A good idea is to put litter in 
the^run, and after the chicks have 

57 



POULTRY SENSE, 



learned to eat, their grain should 
be thrown in the same. 

It is best to make this run out 
of inch mesh wire, so that the 
chicks cannot get out or the spar- 
rows in. 

Do not feed the chicks until they 
are forty-eight hours old; then 
commence with a little pin-head 
oats, placed in feeders or on trays, 
a little clean sand which has been 
heated in an oven, or grit may be 
given in small quantities the day 
before. 

They should be fed four times 
a day for the first three days, 
using only the pin-head oats; after 
this you may add cracked wheat, 
and on the eighth day add to the 
two former cracked corn; these 
are given in equal proportions. 

58 



POULTRY SENSE, 



Wheat bran may now be given 
in small hoppers or trays and kept 
before them at all times. 

Be careful not to over feed. 
Never give feed if you find some 
left from the previous feeding. 
As I have already said, the cracked 
grain had best be thrown in the 
litter or the runway. The hen can 
be given coarser feed. 

After they are three weeks old, 
feed three times daily, using the 
cracked corn, oats and wheat. 

You may now give a mash of 
bran, three parts; wheat middlings, 
one part. 

Grit, charcoal and oyster shell 

I* 

should be hopper feed. 

Chick feed containing pure,clean 
grain similar to the above, can be 
given if you prefer, purchasing 

59 



POULTRY SENSE, 



your chick feed ready mixed in 
place of making it yourself. We 
do not believe in giving wet feed, 
but a mash mixed with a little 
milk, or equal parts milk and 
water, just enough to moisten 
the feed, so that it is crumbly in 
the hand, will be good for them 
and stimulate their appetite, this 
must not be sloppy or be allowed 
to sour in the troughs. 

Do not give more than will be 
eaten up clean in from five to 
eight minutes; if any is left, this 
should be removed. 

If you are brooding the chicks 
with a hen, be sure and powder 
her with a good louse powder at 
least once a week; the chicks will 
get enough of the powder from 

60 



POULTRY SENSE, 



the hen to keep them free from 
lice so long as she covers them. 

Plenty of fresh, clean water, 
given often and in absolutely clean 
fonts, is very essential. 

The fonts should be scalded 
once a week. 

We put ten drops of carbolic 
acid per quart in the drinking 
water for the first ten days to two 
weeks, once a day; after that every 
other day for six weeks, as this 
is a preventative of bowel trouble. 

Cleanliness is the key to success 
here. 

As soon as the chicks will eat 
whole oats, fill a hopper and keep 
it before them at all times; there 
is nothing that will make chicks 
grow larger and heavier with such 
an abundance of feathers. 

61 



POULTRY SENSE 



Some have been quite successful 
in hatching chicks with hens and 
brooding with a fireless brooder, 
or in an incubator, and on the 
eighteenth day place three or four 
eggs under a hen, so that she may 
hatch them out and accept the 
little chicks from the incubator. 

In this way a hen can brood from 
eighteen to twenty-five chicks with 
perfect safety in quite cold weather. 

In this case one must be quite 
sure that the hen is free from 
vermin and that the pen in which 
they are placed has been thorough- 
ly fumigated and cleaned before 
the chicks are put in. 

If the fireless brooder is used, 
thirty-five to fifty chicks do best 
in one flock, and they should not 
be placed in the brooder for thirty- 

62 



POULTRY SENSE 



six hours after hatching. The 
brooder had best be placed in a 
large pen, with a southern ex- 
posure, so as to get the early 
morning sun. 

Incubator chicks do fairly well 
in this kind of a brooder, hardly 
the equal to hen hatched or brood- 
ed in our experience. 

In raising large numbers, we 
prefer the heated brooder with a 
first-class hover. 

If you use incubators, select 
one of the standard makes, and 
there are many of them. 

Pay strict attention to the in- 
structions that come with the ma- 
chine; the maker should know 
best how to run it for good results. 

When the chicks are hatched, 
do not take them out until they are 

63 



POULTRY SENSE, 



perfectly dry and strong, don't 

MEDDLE WITH THE MACHINE AT 

any time, particularly when the 
hatch is coming off, and at this 
time do not allow the temperature 
to fall below one hundred and four 
degrees (104°). 

Have your I brooder clean, dis- 
infected and at the proper tem- 
perature, so that the chicks can be 
transferred from the incubator in- 
to it when the time comes, without 
a variation in temperature. 

The temperature in the brooder 
should be high enough to make 
the chicks comfortable; this can be 
determined by closely watching 
them for the first few days. If 
you see them sitting around in 
different places under the hover, 
some having their heads peeping 

64 



POULTRY SENSE. 



out and they are not crowding, 
your temperature is all right and 
will range from ninety to one 
hundred degrees. Crowding is 
fatal and must be stopped at once, 
or you will lose many of the young- 
sters in short notice. 

Teach them to go under the 
hover by repeatedly putting them 
back after they have been out for 
feed and exercise; the instant they 
commence to stand around and 
cry there is something wrong and 
the chances are that they are cold 
and should be put under the hover 
at once. 

From fifty to seventy-five chicks 
to a hover do the best. 

When they have learned the use 
of the hover, you can give them 
more space in the brooder and 

65 



POULTRY SENSE, 



finally the entire run of the thing. 
Up to this time they should be 
limited to a narrow space sur- 
rounding; the hover, not more than 
three inches. 

Feed the same as described 
before for little chicks. 

Do NOT SAVE ANY WEAKLINGS 

or deformed chicks. Those f ound 
at the time of hatching or that 
develop later, dispose of them at 
once, as they are good subjects for 
bowel trouble or other disease, 
which in time would affect the 
entire flock. 

Clean the brooder often, every 
day, if necessary. It should never 
smell close or offensive. Disinfect 
and clean all trays, pans, boards 
or anything used in their care. 
As soon as it is possible to deter- 

66 



POULTRY SENSE. 



mine the sex, separate the cock- 
erels from the pullets, putting those 
for the market or fattening-pen 
by themselves, those for your future 
breeders in another place. 

The pullets must be given a 
range and placed in a colony coop, 
with as much room as possible, 
putting about thirty in each house, 
facing the south; feed muscle, 
bone and feather-producing foods. 

We find that oats before them 
at all times, cracked wheat and 
corn, with occasionally a little 
barley and fed three times a day, 
just what they will eat up nicely 
in ten minutes, give first-class re- 
sults. 

For a dry mash we use: wheat 
bran, three parts; wheat middlings, 
one part ; corn meal, three-quarter 

67 



POULTRY SENSE, 



parts. Once or twice a week add 
a little linseed or flaxseed meal. 
After they have been on the range 
for six weeks, we add one-half 
parts meat scraps; the same can 
be used for the breeding cockerels, 
except the meat scraps; the latter 
is likely to develop too much comb 
and wattle. 

Those for market should be 
given the fat-producing feeds, oc- 
casionally adding red pepper to 
stimulate their appetites. This 
mash should be fed wet with milk, 
if possible. Do not give any green 
feed, but see that they have plenty 
of grit and oyster shell. 

If you over-feed they will stop 
eating; this should be avoided. 
For whole grain use oats and whole 

68 



POULTRY SENSE, 



corn, buckwheat is inclined to 
make the skin white. 

The mash should consist of : 
wheat bran, one part ; wheat mid- 
dlings, one part ; ground oats, one 
part ; corn chop, two parts ; cotton 
seed or linseed meal, one-quarter 
part. 

The birds for fattening should be 
confined in small quarters, and in 
crate feeding, not over five or six 
in a crate. The manner of pro- 
cedure is as follows : 

Make a stand that will hold 
four crates, end to end, containing 
six birds each; the first row should 
be two feet from the floor and the 
second on top of these. A trough 
should be placed in front of each 
row just so the chickens can reach 
it in order to eat and drink. 

69 



POULTRY SENSE, 



The feed is placed in these 
troughs and given wet; they are 
fed three or four times a day, all 
they will eat in about ten minutes; 
after which water is placed in the 
troughs and the house in which 
they are confined is darkened. 

They should be given a good 
supply of grit and shell. 

The object is to give them all 
they will eat without disturbing 
their appetites or bowels. 

The mash feed consists of ground 
oats, barley, and corn chop, in 
equal parts, to which can be added 
cotton or linseed meal one-quarter 
part ; fat, meat scraps or oil may be 
given, being careful not to give 
too much, as it will cause bowel 
trouble. 

There is a machine used by 

70 



POULTRY SENSE. 



some to fatten their stock, which is 
claimed to be quite a success; this 
apparatus is similar to a sausage 
stuff er, with a rubber tube attached 
to the spout; this is placed in the 
chicken's crop and the compres- 
sion made with the foot lever; 
one hand is placed over the crop; 
as pressure is made the resistance 
to the hand indicates when enough 
has been forced in the same. 
They are fed two or three times 
a day, this taking only a very short 
time and a large number can be 
run through in an hour. These 
birds are kept in crates like the 
ones described above. 

When they weigh three-quarters 
to one pound they are known as 
squab broilers; at one and a 

71 



POULTRY SENSE, 



quarter to one and three-quarters, 
broilers; above this, roasters. 

Don't keep unnecessary stock. 
If you want to make a success of 
the poultry business, you should 
practice economy; weaklings and 
sick chickens make unnecessary 
labor and eat off their heads. 
Everything possible should be turn- 
ed into money. 

By saving the droppings and 
putting same on your land it will 
bring a good return. Unless you 
keep the cockerels, which you are 
going to breed from or sell, in good 
clean dry quarters, and free from 
vermin, you will be disappointed 
in them and lose money. They 
should have a good dust bath as 
well as the pullets, in which you 
should place plenty of louse powder 

72 



POULTRY SENSE, 



and sulphur, and their quarters 
frequently disinfected. 

Don't overcrowd the pullets and 
cockerels; the former should be 
ready for the laying pen by Sep- 
tember first to October first, at the 
latest. 

Keep them on the same feed 
the first three weeks after they 
are put into the laying pens. Then 
they should be given mash number 
one, mentioned before, and whole 
grains, as per instructions for laying 
pullets. 

SHow Birds 

Those birds selected for the 
show should be placed in a coop 
by themselves and given special 
attention, handling them often, 
and by always having a little 

73 



POULTRY SENSE. 



something for them to eat, such as 
a few bread crumbs or meat, they 
soon become very tame and docile. 
Linseed meal and sunflower seed 
added to their rations,give them a 
sleek, glossy appearance. 

They should be the strongest, 
largest, best type and colored birds 
that you have, meeting as nearly 
as possible standard requirements; 
this can be determined by closely 
studying the Standard of Per- 
fection and comparing your bird 
with the cuts of the same breed. 

First of importance is condition; 
this means vigor, style or carriage, 
cleanliness and freedom from dis- 
ease; next, type, color, etc. 

Colored or multi-colored birds 
rarely need washing, unless there 

74 



POULTRY SENSE, 



is considerable white in them, or 
they are dirty. 

In preparing your birds for the 
show, which you should commence 
to do a week or ten days before 
the exhibition, it is best to start 
with the head and see that every 
part is clean and free from as many 
defects as possible. 

The beak, toes and shanks should 
be washed and rubbed up with 
sweet oil on a woolen cloth, espe- 
cially if it is the last preparation. 
If there is any dirt under the scales 
of the shanks, which can be seen 
by a black line along its edge, it 
should be removed with a tooth- 
pick; the comb, wattle, and ear 
lobes, in case the latter should be 
red, can be rubbed up with sweet 
oil; in case the latter should be 

75 



POULTRY SENSE. 



white, you may use zinc ointment 
on them. 

The day of shipping, paint the 
comb, wattles and ear lobes, as 
above stated ; should they be red, 
with oil of sassafras. 

All white chickens should be 
washed and rinsed in two different 
waters, using ivory or castile soap. 

The water in first tub should be 
of a temperature from 90 to 95 
degrees; place the chicken in and 
soap her all over; then rub every 
part carefully, so as not to remove 
any feathers, and when she is 
clean, put her into the first rinsing 
tub, temperature of which should 
be from 70 to 80 degrees; here 
the soap must be thoroughly work- 
ed out, when she can be placed in 
the third tub where bluing has been 

76 



POULTRY SENSE. 



thoroughly mixed, about one-half 
the amount used for clothing, or 
just sufficient to give a decided 
blue tint to the water. If your 
bird, after drying, which should 
be well done before a fire or stove, 
looks brassy, you may sponge it 
with peroxide of hydrogen until 
the feathers are decidedly moisten- 
ed; then when about dry, sponge 
with aqua ammonia fifteen per 
cent.; this can be repeated several 
times, if necessary; any color re- 
maining is permanent. 

This operation should be per- 
formed in a room where the tem- 
perature runs from 55 to 70 de- 
grees. 

In drying birds they should be 
handled constantly, working the 
feathers and wings. By holding 

77 



POULTRY SENSE. 



the bird up by its feet it will flap 
its wings, thus freeing them from 
the water. As soon as you find 
the feathers are commencing to 
dry nicely, the bird can be placed 
on a chair by the stove. 

After the birds are washed and 
dried, place them in a clean pen, 
which has been previously pre- 
pared and in which there are 
plenty of clean shavings or straw 
and put into a room free from 
draughts and not too cold, say not 
lower than 60 degrees. 

Sprouting Oats 

Sprouted oats, which has be- 
come almost a necessity, should be 
fed about the middle of the day 
and is prepared as follows: 

Take a bucket of any kind, 

78 



POULTRY SENSE, 



holding four quarts; fill two-thirds 
full of oats, over which you pour 
water, temperature 100 degrees, 
until the oats are covered; put this 
in a warm place and cover with 
an old sack or a piece of carpet, 
leaving it there for from fourteen 
to twenty-four hours; then dump 
the contents into another bucket, 
after first having punched the bot- 
tom full of holes, so that the water 
can drain out and still retain the 
oats. 

The oats should be sprinkled 
twice daily with warm water, keep- 
ing the oats covered as before. 

As soon as you notice the root- 
lets forming on the oats, dump the 
same into a tray that is eighteen 
inches wide by two to two and one- 
half .feet long, spreading the oats 

7d 



POULTRY SENSE, 



out to the depth of an inch to an 
inch and a half, this must be kept 
covered and sprinkled twice a day 
with lukewarm water. 

The temperature of the room 
should not be kept below fifty 
degrees. 

When the sprouts are from one 
and a half to two inches long you 
may begin feeding it, tearing it 
into small pieces or giving it in 
squares. We consider the former 
the better way. 

Give the hens all they will eat 
up in from five to ten minutes, 
other grains can be sprouted in 
the same way and fed every, or 
every other day. 

Green food of some kind should 
be fed every day and as there are 
a great many, such as cabbage, 

80 



POULTRY SENSE, 



turnips, mangles, swiss chard, let- 
tuce, etc., some one can be had at 
small cost. 

Marketing tHe Eggs 

You should endeavor to dispose 
of these to private families, or, in 
other words, direct to the con- 
sumers. If this is impossible then 
stores or commission men; the 
latter has not always acted square- 
ly with the farmer, but there are 
those who will deal right with you 
and give fair prices, but it is better 
to eliminate the middle man and 
thereby save his profit, and give 
the consumer fresher and better 
eggs. And right here let me sug- 
gest to the poultry men, dairymen 
and general farmer, the advantage 

81 



POULTRY SENSE, 



of selling their products direct to 
the consumer. 

All farmers raise more or less 
poultry and have various kinds of 
vegetables and foodstuffs to sell, 
and if they had a central station 
or distributing centre to which 
they could send their eggs, milk, 
fruit, and vegetables, to be disposed 
of to the consumer or merchant by 
their own agent, they would make 
both the middleman's and retailer's 
profit; this could be very easily han- 
dled if the counties were divided 
in sections or districts, each district 
having its distributing centre or 
exchange. Each district would 
have its club or organization which 
would select their agent to super- 
vise the selling of their products 
from the exchanges. 

82 



POULTRY SENSE, 



They should advertise the fact 
that they will sell direct to the 
people and guarantee fresh, clean 
provisions; in this way they would 
get the highest price possible for 
all the foodstuffs they could raise 
and the consumer get much better 
provisions at a little less cost. 
I say much better, as you well 
know at present the poultry men 
and farmer keeps his produce until 
he has enough to pay him to sell. 
At the present low price for his 
products and the high price for 
labor ? he cannot afford to ship 
more than once every week or two, 
when, if he had a central station, 
he could ship every day at less 
expense, as the shipment would be 
made by all in the section by their 
club agent. 

83 



POULTRY SENSE, 



The middleman, in disposing of 
the farmer's produce, is nothing 
more or less than a leech. 

Get Rid of tKe Leech 

Until this idea prevails we shall 
have to follow the usual course. 

Eggs should be cleaned and 
assorted according to size and 
color and never sell your private 
trade a small or badly shaped 
egg. Poultry may be disposed of 
in a like manner, dry picked bring- 
ing the best price. 

In selling stock for breeding, 
or eggs for hatching, be honest. 
Send your customer full value for 
his money; don't send a bird or 
eggs that are not what you would 
be willing to accept at the same 
price; see that your eggs are care- 

84 



POULTRY SENSE. 



fully packed and that the birds 
are well crated and free from ver- 
min. 

In advertising don't misrepre- 
sent your stock, for if you do you 
will onlv sell to that customer 
once. 



It would seem at first glance 
that this is a very important sub- 
ject, and yet when seriously con- 
sidered, the treatment of diseased 
fowls is of minor importance, com- 
pared to prevention of disease or 
prophylactic measures. 

It is important to know how to 
care for and treat a few of the 
more common ailments, such as 
catarrhal colds, bowel trouble, 

85 



POULTRY SENSE, 



chicken-pox, bumble foot and per- 
haps sore throat and croup (roup). 

We are of the opinion that a 
very sick chicken is of very little 
consequence, either as an egg- 
producer, breeder or show bird, 
and certainly should never be 
sent to the market. 

Marasmus, tuberculosis, roup, 
cholera, etc., are constitutional dis- 
eases, and when a fowl becomes 
seriously ill, it should be decapi- 
tated at once. 

Catarrhal Colds of 
Head 

Let us consider catarrhal dis- 
turbances. This may affect the 
naries, (nose), eyes, throat or bron- 
chi (it is very often classed as 
roup), in that the discharge from 

86 



POULTRY SENSE, 



the nose at the time has a decided 
odor and becomes viscid, tena- 
cious or thick and sticky; the eyes 
may become involved, which is 
only natural, when you consider 
there is a canal leading from it 
into the nose, and when the mem- 
branes of the nose are swollen 
and the chicken can no longer 
breathe through same, they often 
blow mucus up through the lachry- 
mal canal into the eyes, or I 
should say between the lids and 
the eye-ball: this infects the mem- 
brane of the same, and they begin 
to water and swell up, unless 
properly treated at this time, the 
cornea of the eye (the pupil) 
becomes inflamed (keratitis) and 
finally ulcerates, the tissue breaks 
down and the viterous humor, 

87 



POULTRY SENSE, 



etc., runs out, the eye is destroyed, 
or the throat becomes affected and 
covered with a yellow cheesy de- 
posit which is very offensive, or 
the entrance of the trachea (wind- 
pipe) becomes ulcerated and cover- 
ed with a thick yellowish deposit, 
and you have roup and ulcerated 
sore throat (called by some diph- 
theria), although I have never 
gotten a diphtheretic culture from 
the same. 

Prophylactic Measures 

Now what are we going to do 
for this, either in the first stages 
or to prevent it? We will first 
consider the prophylactic measures. 
See that the poultry house is sani- 
tary, dry and free from draughts; 
ifjthis is right, then perhaps there 

88 



POULTRY SENSE, 



are too many birds in the pen and 
they are crowded on the perches; 
if not, and the water and feed are 
clean, then it must be due to 
weather changes, or some bird 
from another source has brought 
it to your birds. Fumigate and 
disinfect at once and often. You 
should be very careful, if buying 
stock, to put them in quarantine 
for a while, until vou are sure 
there is nothing wrong, and that 
they are free from vermin before 
you put them in a pen with your 
birds. 

Treatment of Cold in 
Head 

Upon the very first sign or 
evidence that a bird has a cold, or 

89 



POULTRY SENSE. 



is not well, remove to a coop by 
itself, or it may be perhaps that 
your flock is more or less affected 
before you discover there is any- 
thing wrong. 

In the first instance, if the bird 
is sneezing, has a thin watery 
discharge from the nose give it 
Allium Cepa 3x or Arsenicum Alb. 
3x.; if there is watery discharge 
from the eye give Euphrasia, 3x.; 
if the discharge is thick and sticky 
and from nose give Mercurius 
Vivus 3x. or Hepar Sulphur 3x., 
particularly if there is a bad 
odor. 

These medicines are given as 
follows: If only a few birds are 
affected, medicate some pellets 
(sugar pellets), such as you get at a 

90 



POULTRY SENSE, 



Homoeopathic druggist or Doctor) 
and give three or four to each bird 
three times daily; if the entire pen 
is more or less sick, put twenty-five 
drops in about one quart of water 
and use this to moisten some 
mash; give it two or three times 
per day, giving just enough so 
that each bird gets about a table- 
spoonful. 

x\ll of the drugs mentioned above 
are liquid, except Mercurius and 
Hepar Sulphur; they are powder or 
flat discs, so you can dissolve 
twenty to about the same amount 
of water; have it warm and use 
to mix the mash or give one disc 
per dose. 

R>otip 

If your bird has sore mouth, 
swollen head, and there is an odor 

91 



POULTRY SENSE, 



to the breath, you have roup sure, 
and you can give Spongia 3x. and 
Mercurius Vivus 3x., four doses 
per day, in mash, drinking water, 
or let them take it as thev like. 
If you have time to spare, medicate 
some pellets with Spongia 3x. 
(3 pellets per dose), give every two 
hours, alternating with Merc. Vivus 
3x. (1 disc), and your bird will 
recover, if anything will cure it. 

We believe in using the axe in 
such cases and disinfecting two 
or three times before another bird 
is placed in the same place. 

Sore Throat 

In case sore throat is the first 
thing noticed, the trachea nearly 
closed at top with a yellowish 

92 



POULTRY SENSE. 



deposit; the latter should be re- 
moved with a thin stick, on which 
cotton is wound (tooth-pick will 
answer) ; moisten with thin oil and 
peroxide, equal parts, and swab out; 
then give Mercurius lod. 2x. As 
an oil to drop in the nose or force in 
with a dropper, we use Enzymol, 
one part, andPeroxide of Hydrogen, 
one part; shake this well before 
dropping into the nose ; this can be 
used in all catarrhal colds in con- 
junction with medicine, and give 
the flock Permanganate of Potash 
in their water, enough to give a 
decided purplish tinge to the same, 
of one to a thousand solution; or 
camphor tincture can be placed 
in the drinking water, twenty-five 
drops per quart. Bichloride of 
mercury one to a thousand, is 

93 



POULTRY SENSE, 



excellent, using one ounce per 
quart of water. 

Diarrhoea in CHicRs 

The evidence of bowel trouble 
in the little chicks, if first noticed 
by the discharges sticking on the 
down at the stern of the chick. 
Give Ipecacuanha 3x., or Chamo- 
milla 3x., either alternate or alone; 
give 20 drops to a pint in the drink- 
ing water every time you give them 
fresh water, or Bichloride of Mer- 
cury, one to a thousand, one ounce 
in pint of drinking water. 

If the discharge is bloody or 
white, give Mercurius Sub. Cor. 
2x., eight tablets in a half pint of 
water, or boiled milk and Arseni- 
cum lod. 3x., eight drops, as before, 
in boiled milk or water. 

94 



POULTRY SENSE. 



The experiment stations men- 
tion the use of sulpho carbolates 
comp. in such bowel troubles and 
diarrhoea in matured poultry, put 
in drinking water. 

Diar?Hhcea in Old 

Chickens 

In case they stand around all 
in a heap and the excretions are 
thin and watery, give Veratrum 
Alb. 3x. or Arsenicum Alb. 3x. 
three pellets per dose or twenty- 
five drops per quart of water or 
boiled milk; the latter is the better 
when vou have it. 

If diarrhoea is green, give Ipecac- 
uanha 2x., or Arsenicum lod. 2x. 

If bloody, and the chicken drops 
its wings, etc., Mercurius Sub. 
Cor. 2x. 

95 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Limber NecR 

Limber neck, or when the 
chicken has a greenish diarrhoea, 
the neck stretches out as long as 
possible and the beak almost 
touches the ground, the fowl stands 
around, give Nux Vomica Sx, and 
Ipecacuanha 3x. ; when the chicken 
acts dizzy and the head is twisted 
around on one side and falls down, 
give Belladonna 3x. 

Bumble Foot 

This is the bruising of the soft 
tissues of the bottom of the feet 
and an abscess forms, or the peri- 
osteum, which is the membrane 
surrounding the bone, is involved 
and pus forms (this resembles a 
felon on the finger), cut down, 

96 



POULTRY SENSE, 



let out pus and dress with iodoform 
gauze or powdered boracic acid. 

If the bone of the foot is in- 
volved, cut down to it and scrape 
it, dress as before; use a bandage 
to keep the dirt out and give 
Hepar Sulph. 3x., one tablet two 
or three times per day or alternate 
with Calcarea Fluorica 6x.; this 
will eventually cure. 

Frosted Comb 

If possible apply snow or ice 
to the frozen comb until the frost 
is out of it, then cover with 
carbolated vaseline. 

Scaly Legs 

Carbolated vaseline can be rub- 
bed on after the legs have been 
soaked in bichloride, 1 to 1000, for 
from five to ten minutes. 

97 



POULTRY SENSE. 



CbicRen Pox 

This is a cutaneous disease, and 
manifests itself by sores or blotches 
on comb and wattles, head or 
under the wings; may form pus- 
tules. 

Quarantine and disinfect the 
pen from which the bird came; 
give Arsenicum 3x. and Rhus Tox. 
3x., alternating, three pellets every 
two hours. 

Or, in case a number are af- 
fected, put twenty drops of Arseni- 
cum Album 3x. in one pint of 
water, moisten some mash and 
give just what will be eaten up in 
three minutes and in two hours 
prepare the Rhus Tox in the same 
way and give in alternation every 
two hours. 

98 



POULTRY SENSE, 



Asthma 

Difficult breathing,with blueness 
of comb and face, due to being fat 
or heart trouble, require Corallium 
Rubrum, Arsenicum Alb. or Spon- 
gia in 3x., three pellets every two 
or three hours. 

This must not be confused with 
bronchitis. 



Bronchitis 

Cold in the bronchial tubes, 
w T ith rattling of mucus and cough, 
may be acute or chronic, some- 
times called rattles. 

Give Ipecacuanha 3x. Antimon- 
ium Tart. 3x. Ammoniacum 3x. 
is especially good for the chronic 
form, also Senega 3x. 

99 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Molting 

If your chicks are not molting 
properly, add oil meal to their 
mash and some sunflower seed to 
their grain, also give milk in which 
there is a little extra salt and 
Calcarea Carb. 3x. and Phosphate 
of Iron in the water. 

Crop-Bound 

Give a tablespoonful of olive 
or cottonseed oil for a matured 
bird and a dessert spoonful for a 
chick. 

If this does not relieve, cut a 
slit in the skin over the crop about 
one and a half inches long (length- 
wise with the body), grasp the 
crop and cut a slit about one inch 
in the same, running same way, 

100 



POULTRY SENSE, 



remove contents, sew up the slit 
in the crop with a clean white silk 
thread, then the slit in the skin 
over the crop. Do not sew them 

UP TOGETHER. 

The bird should be fed soft feed 
for about three days when it 
usually recovers. 

Epidemic Conjunc- 
tivitis 

( PinR Eye ) 

An inflammation of the conjunc- 
tivia, or membrane lining the 
eye lids and covering the white 
of the eve ball, this is due to a 
small Bacillus and causes the eye 
to become red, swollen, and to 
discharge a watery, sticky fluid 
which w r ill reproduce the disease 
in another eye if it gets into it. 

101 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Give cooling feed, sprouted 
grains, green feeds of all kinds, 
and mash. 

Bathe the eve with one to one 
thousand of Bichloride of Mercury 
or saturated solution of Boracic 
Acid, by dropping three to four 
drops in each eye after which put 
in a little Yellow Oxide (Mercury 
ointment) a piece about the size 
of a number six shot. 

Give Euphrasia 3x. if the eye 
is greatly swollen and if there is an 
acrid watery discharge. 

Pulsatilla 3x. if the discharge 
is thick and forms pus. 

Rhus Tox. 3x. for simple con- 
junctivitis without much swelling, 
but with a waterv discharge; ulcers 
of the cornea (the pupil), hen 
keeps eye closed. 

102 



POULTRY SENSE, 



Egg-Bound 

This is due to over feeding 1 (too 
fat) or forcing egg production. 

Give cooling feed (green feed 
and sprouted grains), no whole or 
cracked grains for a while. 

Anoint the finger with vaseline 
and remove the egg ; if too large, 
break it and remove it in pieces; 
same procedure for broken eggs; 
give Pulsatilla 3x. 

Soft-shelled, large and poorly- 
shaped eggs are due to the same 
cause and lack of lime; give Cal- 
carea Carb. 3x. 

For bloody eggs, or blood on 
shells, give Pulsatilla 3x. 

Gapes 

This is due to a little red worm, 
supposed to be developed from a 

103 



POULTRY SENSE, 



small parasite found in earth- 
worms. 

The Germans, however, believe 
it develops in the chick, which has 
eaten something containing the 
spore of the worm (an insect) and 
that certain localities are more 
frequently infected with its source 
than others. 

Chicks up to two months old are 
victims and should be kept out of 
the wet grass and rain until they 
have^passed the danger point (ten 
weeks) . 

Infected ground must be treated 
with lime in order to destroy the 
infection. 

The worm should be removed 
with a twisted horse -hair, or 
stripped feather to within half an 
inch of the end; dip the feather 

104 



POULTRY SENSE- 



into kerosene before using same, 
or drop three drops of kerosene 
into the trachea (windpipe). 

Cina 3x. given in the drinking 
water as per dictum under reme- 
dies. 

Just one word about the drugs 
mentioned in this book. 

They can be purchased of any 
Homeopathic Pharmacy or Doctor. 

Some can be had at any drug 
store, such as Permanganate and 
Bichloride of Mercury, Alboline, 
Carbolic Acid, Flowers of Sulphur. 

Remedies or medicines mention- 
ed in this little book are to be 
given in 3x. unless otherwise men- 
tioned. 

If liquid, put twenty drops per 
quart of drinking water, or medi- 
cate number 30 pellets by drop- 

105 



POULTRY SENSE. 



ping ten drops on a two drachm 
vial full of pellets and give three 
to the bird two or three times per 
day. 

If powder, put eight grains in 
one quart of drinking water, or 
two discs tw r o or three times per 
day. 

By alternating the drugs, we 
mean give one (as Arsenicum) at 
one time and the other at the other 
(as Allium Cepa) at the next dose. 

For instance, if you commenced 
giving Allium Cepa at 7 A. M. 
Arsenicum at 9, Allium Cepa at 
11, Arsenicum Alb. at 1 P. M. and 
so on. 

For making your Permanganate 
of Potash you can get a one quart 
bottle and put 14 grains into it, then 
fill same with water; this can be 

106 



POULTRY SENSE. 



your stock bottle used for putting 
in the fonts. 

If birds have colds, we some- 
times add half an ounce of Am- 
monium Garb. 2x. 



Improving tKe Strain 

When introducing new blood, 
the following has proven the best, 
particularly if you desire to retain 
the type and laying qualities of 
your own stock. 

Purchase a first-class hen (year- 
ling) from a breeder who has a 
strain known to be good for egg 
production and of excellent color, 
breed her to your best type year- 
old cock out of your heavy laying 
hens; the result of the mating 

107 



POULTRY SENSE, 



must be watched and the best 
laying pullet bred back to its sire, 
and a cockerel from this mating 
used in the breeding pen the 
following season. 

Keeping the Stamina 
and Vigor in tHe Strain 

By breeding the daughters, grand 
daughters or great-grand-daugh- 
ters to the sire or grand sire, each 
time selecting the strongest, best 
type and layers, will improve the 
high qualities of the strain beyond 
that of the original sire and dam. 

Breeding the dam or grand- 
dams to sons which are vigorous 
and most closely resemble the dam 
or grand-dam one can maintain 
beauty, color and vigor, and by 
mating a cockerel bred from the 

108 



POULTRY SENSE, 



daughter or grand-daughter of the 
original sire, by him or his sire, 
to a hen, daughter of the grand- 
dam or great-grand-dam of origi- 
nal dam, you retain vigor, quality 
and beauty. 

This can be continued indefi- 
nitely, if a close record is kept of 
the breeding. 

How Early Breeders 
Maintained Vigor 

Col umbel la was perhaps the 
most scientific breeder and poultry 
expert of his day and kept records 
of his breeding pens, bred for type, 
color, vigor and egg production. 
He usually allowed about twelve 
hens to a cock. 

Parmentier, the French breeder, 

109 



POULTRY SENSE. 



allowed fifteen to twenty females 
to each cock. 

Mowbray allowed four or five 
hens during cold weather, and 
Nolon believed that to secure fine 
large, strong specimens, one should 
use a two-year old cock with not 
more than five yearlings or two 
year old hens. 




no 



POULTRY SENSE, 



lout's 



Don't feed your breeding hens 
too much soft feed, a varietv of 
grains thrown in the litter keeps 
them active and strong. 

Don't breed brothers and sisters, 
unless you T^ant to produce ban- 
tams. 

Don't forget plenty of green 
feed, especially for the breeding 
pens; assists digestion and in- 
creases the fertility. 

Don't forget that daughters bred 
to sire or grand-sire make good, 
strong, healthy chicks, or grand- 

111 



POULTRY SENSE. 



dams or dams bred to sons do like- 
wise. 

Don't forget that the dam gives 
the size and the sire the color. 

Don't forget that two defects 
bred together emphasize that de- 
fect. 

Hard feathered birds do best 
on more grains, soft feathered on 
soft feed. 

Don't forget to fumigate 
often, winter and summer. 

Don't forget to have plenty of 
litter in which to throw your grains. 
Busy chickens means health and 
eggs. 

Don't breed to pullets, unless 
they are fully matured and at 
least ten months old; the same 
applies to cockerels. 

112 



POULTRY SENSE, 



Don't get in a hurry — go 

SLOW. 

First make a success of your 
unit plant, before adding more. 

Don't forget that poultry intend- 
ed for the market should fast at 
least twelve hours before killing. 

Don't put your show birds right 
back in the coop upon their return 
from the show, but in a pen by 
themselves, so you may watch for 
symptoms of disease or lice and 
keep the temperature about fifty 
degrees for a day or two. 

Don't raise vermin; it doesn't 
pay. 

Don't keep the weaklings and 
immature stock; if possible, fatten 
them or place them on the guillo- 
tine. 

113 



POULTRY SENSE, 



Don't forget that milk-fed 
fowls bring the best price. 

Don't buy cheap eggs and stock. 

Don't overcrowd, if you want 
eggs and no colds. 

Don't forget to use plenty of 
louse powder and use it often. 

Don't forget to keep the house 
dark in which you are crate feeding 
the fattening stock. This is a 
case of eat, sleep and grow fat. 

Don't forget to paint the 
perches with carbolic acid, ninety 
per cent, one part to three of 
gasoline. 

Don't place your chicks on the 
same ground every year or let 
the coops get wet inside. 

114 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Don't meddle with the incu- 
bator, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE 
HATCH IS COMING OFF. 

Don't forget to train your birds; 
this means posing or placing them 
in the same position of this breed, 
as shown in the standard of per- 
fection. 

Don't send dirty birds to the 
show room or to vour customer. 

Don't forget that light and 
sunshine are important in the 
hen house, the more the better. 

Don't forget to have a double 
floor in your hen houses and 
brooders. 

Don't forget to watch the tem- 
perature in your brooder; look at 
it often. 

115 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Don't forget ten drops of Car- 
bolic Acid to a quart of drinking 
water, once a day for the first 
week, will prevent bowel trouble. 

Don't forget that alfalfa meal 
or cut clover, preferably white 
clover, added to the dry mash in 
winter increases the egg yield. 

Don't forget to isolate all 
sick birds. This is the verv first 
step to take. 

And, lastly, don't forget 
that your wife would like to 
have a chicken to cook once 
in a while. 



116 



POULTRY SENSE, 



Mntnm MtUm 



Allium Cepa. 

Cold in head, with acrid dis- 
charge from nose and eyes, keeps 
eyes closed, so as to protect same 
from light. 

Ammoniacum. 

Difficult breathing, chronic bron- 
chial catarrh, accumulation of pur- 
ulent mucus in windpipe, rattling 
in same. 

Ammonium Carb. 

Cold in head, takes cold easily, 
discharge of burning water from 
nose which stops during night, 
but worse next day. 

117 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Long-continued discharge from 
nose, snuffles, ulcerations of throat, 
swelling of same, tongue sore and 
breathing loud. 

Arsenicum Album. 

Thin watery discharge from nose 
and eyes, latter red and swollen. 

Mouth and tongue sore, sore 
spots on head, discharge of watery 
offensive substance from bowels, 
loss of strength, drinks often. 

Arsenicum Iodatum. 

Discharge from nose sticky, eyes 
swollen and vicid discharge, sneez- 
ing, ulcers on tongue and sides of 
mouth, difficult breathing. 

Painful discharge from bowels, 
offensive, dark and bloody. Chol- 
era. 

118 



POULTRY SENSE, 



Belladonna. 

Vertigo, falling to side or back- 
ward, spasms, greenish discharge 
from bowels, swelling of neck and 
throat. 

Calcarea Carbonica. 

(Carbonate of Lime) 

Where there is slow feathering, 
deformed eggs or soft shelled eggs, 
assists molting. In developing 
feathers, bone and egg shells. 

Calcarea Fluorica. 

(Fluoride op Lime) 

Ulceration of bowels, swollen 
neck and bumble foot. 

Calcarea Phosphorica. 

(Phosphate of Lime) 

Assists molting, leg weakness. 

119 



POULTRY SENSE, 



Camphoria. 

(Camphor) 

Cold in head (early stage) sneez- 
ing, constantly catching cold. 
Cholera. 

Chamomilla. 

Diarrhoea in little chicks, pasted 
up on vent, given with Podophyl- 
lum in alternation. 

China Off. 

Thin discharge from bowels, 
weak, acts as tonic. 

Given to revive chicks who have 
been out in rain storm or cold, 
with a little Capsicum; put this in 
water and drop in throat. 

Ipecacuanha. 

Diarrhoea, green discharge. Rat- 
tling in throat. 

120 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Kali Bichromicum. 

(Bichromate of Potash) 

Cold in head, discharge thick 
and stringy, ulcerated sore throat. 

Diphtheria, cheesy deposits in 
throat. 

One drachm to a quart of drink- 
ing water, to protect the flock. 

Kali Permanganicum. 

(Permanganate of Potash) 

Intense irritation of nose, throat 
and larynx. 

Diphtheria, throat swollen and 
covered with cheesy matter. 

One drachm to a quart of water; 
good mixture to put into drinking 
water to prevent the spreading of 
disease to rest of flock. 

121 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Mercurius Corrosivus. 

(Bichloride of Mercury) 

Excoriating discharge from eyes 
and nose, sore tongue. 

Bloody discharge from bowels, 
white diarrhoea, straining with pro- 
lapses of bowel, discharge liquid 
and irritating. 

Nux Vomica. 
Leg weakness and constipation. 

Podophyllum. 

Thin discharge from bowels, 
diarrhoea matting down on vent, 
congestion of liver. 

Pulsatilla. 

Thick, profuse yellow, bland 
discharge from the eye or nose. 

Blood in egg, or on shell, egg 
bound. 

122 



POULTRY SENSE. 



Rhus Tox. 

Eves swollen, red, acrid watery 
discharge from eye, keeps eyes 
closed. 

Ulceration of the cornea (pupil). 

Senega. 

Chronic bronchitis, difficult to 
dislodge mucus, rattling in throat. 

Spongia. 

Cold in head, swelling of eyes, 
discharge from nose, rattling of 
throat. 

The ideal roup remedy. 



123 



SEP 29 t 911 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



OCT § 1911 



